On the Ladoga Cape, where the Elena River (Ladzhka) flows into the Volkhov, the towers of the ancient stone fortress rise. Its grim walls still look strong, as if ready to repel any enemy attack.
The Staraya Ladoga Fortress in the Volkhov district of Leningrad region is a miraculously preserved witness to the cultural birth of the Russian state. Harsh in a northern way, it keeps many secrets and mysteries within its towers, which even professional archaeologists are reluctant to uncover. Today, people come to Staraya Ladoga for the romance of Ancient Rus, magnificent views, and to touch the amazing history of our country.
How the Varangians Built a Castle in Staraya Ladoga
The fortress with its gloomy towers is one of the oldest. It is first mentioned in 862, when the Varangian Rurik was invited to rule. Near the village of Ladoga, he built a wooden castle for his retinue and settled there for a short time on his way to Novgorod.
The small fortress, designed only for the princely army, could not fully protect the growing settlement nearby. Therefore, it was decided to erect a new fortification with several stone watchtowers. It appeared at the turn of the 9th and 10th centuries and was built in the spirit of the classical defensive fortresses of Western Europe of that time. It was constructed by Prince Oleg, known as the Prophetic.
There is a legend that Prince Oleg is buried in these places. Tourists are shown one of the burial mounds, calling it the grave of the famous warrior, as mentioned in the Novgorod Chronicle. There are also rumors of a secret underground passage leading from the mound to the walls of one of the neighboring monasteries, but this has yet to be confirmed.
The Time of Glorious Victories
The fortress in Staraya Ladoga held an important military position, covering the route from the Baltic deep into Russian lands and forming the first line of defense. Despite numerous attacks, it fell under the onslaught of the Norwegian earl Eirik Hakonsson.
The fortification was rebuilt in the early 11th century. The new fortress received powerful wooden-earth walls and a deep moat, significantly enhancing its defensive capabilities. In 1116, by order of Prince Mstislav Vladimirovich, construction of a stone fortress began in Ladoga. Its walls reached eight meters in height and three meters in thickness.
In 1164, the Swedes landed at the fortress walls with 55 ships. Despite the enemy's numerical superiority, the fortress held out, and the defenders captured several dozen enemy ships. In honor of the victory, the Cathedral of St. George, the patron of warriors, was erected. To this day, not only its stone walls have survived, but also 12th-century frescoes, including the scene of "The Miracle of George and the Dragon."
Later, the Swedes made several attempts to capture the fortress, the last assault occurring in 1338. St. George reliably protected his home.
From Victory to Oblivion
The 16th century brought a new breakthrough in military affairs with the use of firearms. The previous fortifications no longer provided reliable protection. The fortress was rebuilt using hewn stone and slate. The new walls became stronger and thicker, reaching nine meters at the base. New towers with embrasures appeared, but they have not survived to this day.
By the end of the 16th century, the fortress grew a bastion with three towers on the southern side. During the Time of Troubles, the fortress changed hands several times between the Russians and the Swedes, and was last captured by them in 1610. But just seven years later, it returned to Russia as a result of the Treaty of Stolbovo. Since then, its towers have reliably guarded the borders of the country.
The Swedes besieged the fortress for the last time in 1701 during the Great Northern War. However, the fortress was not taken and lost its military significance. Gradually, it fell into decay and was almost destroyed. In 1703, the construction of New Ladoga began on the site of the Nikolsky-Medvedsky Monastery, and the old town lost its status.
A New Life on the Banks of the Volkhov
The first archaeological studies of the fortress began in the mid-19th century under the guidance of Nikolai Brandenburg. However, the research did not progress further, and the ancient towers remained in ruins.
In the second half of the 20th century, the revival of the fortress began. The reconstruction relied on excavations from the beginning of the century. Several towers and fragments of walls were rebuilt in the fortress. However, the feasibility of such construction is still debated among historians.
Detailed descriptions or images of the fortress have not survived. A significant part of the work was based on the assumptions of scholars. The restoration was carried out based on similar structures.
The Stories of the Ancient Fortress
In 1971, exhibitions of the new local history museum-reserve opened in the fortress towers. During the Soviet era, only two towers were restored: the Gate Tower and the Klimentovskaya Tower. Work on the others began in 2008 and was completed in 2018 after the fortress was transferred to the ownership of the Leningrad region. Today, the entire territory is open for inspection.
What to See?
The Staraya Ladoga fortress houses a museum and cultural complex. The place is shrouded in many legends and myths, but most of them have arisen in recent decades.
The Church of St. George
Of interest is the 12th-century Church of St. George, built in honor of the victory over the Swedes. Its architecture is typical of its time, but the location within the fortress has left its mark. Due to a lack of space, it turned out to be somewhat asymmetrical.
The main decoration of the church, the mosaic frescoes, were partially damaged in the 17th century. However, most of them were discovered under the flooring in the 20th century and restored. The church is recognized as the northernmost stone temple of the pre-Mongol period.
The Church of Dmitry of Thessalonica
In the center of the fortress stands a wooden church from the 17th century, consecrated in honor of Dmitry of Thessalonica. It has been rebuilt many times and suffered from fires. In 1865, it was planned to move it to Valaam Island, but the townspeople and local government opposed this. In 1901, the church was restored and reconsecrated.
In 1917, spiritual life here ceased. The building was used for the accommodation of archaeologists and later housed an exhibition of peasant life. Today, the church has an exhibition dedicated to the frescoes of the Church of St. George.
Museum Exhibitions of Staraya Ladoga
Exhibitions in the fortress change regularly, but several exhibitions operate permanently. One of them, "Archaeology of Ladoga," features household items, weapons, and costumes of the local inhabitants. Another important exhibition is located in the Gate Tower and is dedicated to the history of Priladozhye.
Historical Festivals
The fortress hosts thematic festivals where everyone can feel like a resident of Ancient Rus. The theme of the festival changes, allowing different pages of the fortress and Ladoga lands' history to be highlighted. Everyone, including families, can participate. Here, you can also buy souvenirs and decorations made by craftsmen based on ancient samples.
Today, tourists take photos near the ancient towers and children play. The restored fortification has become a backdrop for military reenactments. Nearby are other attractions: the Nikolsky Monastery, Vasilievsky Pogost, the ancient settlement by the Lyubsha River, the house of the merchants Kalyazins, and other interesting places.
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