In the mid-20th century, the Swiss Riviera, including Lausanne, Vevey, Montreux, and Morges, became a favorite spot for stars seeking tranquility. Among them were Charlie Chaplin, Gabrielle Chanel, and Audrey Hepburn. Vladimir Nabokov also found comfort here, like Chanel, preferring to live in a respectable hotel.
Nabokov's move to Switzerland was made possible by the financial independence he gained after the success of "Lolita" and his work on screenplays in the early 1960s. This allowed him to leave teaching in the USA and return to Europe. In 1961, while traveling with his wife Vera across Europe, he sought a new place to live. The Vaud canton in Switzerland turned out to be a suitable option: his sister Elena lived in Geneva, and his son Dmitry worked in Italy.
Director Peter Ustinov, a new acquaintance of the Nabokovs, suggested they stay at the Montreux Palace hotel. This luxurious hotel, built on the shores of Lake Geneva in 1906, became their temporary refuge. Initially, they rented several rooms, and a year later moved into a multi-room suite with a balcony overlooking the lake.
Ultimately, the temporary accommodation became permanent, and the Nabokovs lived in the hotel until the writer's death in 1977. They led a secluded lifestyle, rarely receiving guests and journalists. Vera was his chess partner, secretary, and almost sole conversationalist. Nabokov worked extensively in their room or on the terrace, and for relaxation, he strolled through the town and along the promenade. The couple is buried in a cemetery in Clarens, near Montreux.
Photographs from the 16 years spent in Switzerland captured Nabokov at work or with a butterfly net in the Alps. A film survives showing him and Vera walking around the hotel, playing chess, sunbathing, and reading "Lolita" in two languages. There is also footage of him catching butterflies near the Matterhorn.
One of the reasons for moving to Switzerland was the rich alpine fauna. Nabokov was as passionate about lepidopterology as he was about literature. He developed a theory about the evolution of Polyommatus blues, later confirmed by scientists. In shorts and golf socks, with a net in hand, he ventured into the Alps for rare butterflies. His collection of over 4,000 specimens is housed in the Zoological Museum of Lausanne, but is currently not accessible to the public.
A walk through Nabokov's haunts on the Geneva Riviera should start at Montreux Palace. The room where the Nabokovs lived, with retro furniture and a view of the lake, is always occupied. However, the ballrooms in the belle époque style are open for visits. In the corridors, one can see photographs of the writer: on the balcony, in a chair, ready for butterfly hunting.
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