For the residents of Irbit, the passage holds the same significance as the Eiffel Tower does for Parisians. It is the only surviving part of the ancient trading center that has made it to our days. This valuable landmark symbolizes the Ural hinterland and reminds us of merchant festivities from the 19th century. The passage is located in the main square and holds the legends and stories of old Irbit.
A Celebration in Luxury!
In the past, it was considered a crime to come to Irbit and not visit the passage. Founded in 1864, this place quickly became the center of Ural trade and the main pavilion of the fair, which lasted almost a month. The building adorned the main city square thanks to entrepreneur Golovin. He, engaged in organizing concerts and theatrical performances, proposed to build a special venue for spectacular entertainment. By the new season, the passage opened its doors to local and visiting merchants.
The name of the architect who created the design has not survived in Irbit's chronicles. The basis was a three-nave hall with three-level transition galleries, adjacent to trading "nooks." All tiers are connected by staircases. The structure of the building consists of massive walls, columns, metal partitions, and wooden ceilings. The building is made of stone, with the walls inside plastered and painted.
The main facade presents a strict symmetrical composition of three parts, attracting the attention of guests to the trading hall. From the street, it opens with huge windows, elongated in height and framed in arches. The Irbit Passage includes forty trading spaces.
Initially, Golovin planned for the building to become something like a studio theater, but the city administration demanded a huge rent of 600 rubles, and he refused such an amount. The authorities transferred the building to trading rows. For wealthy merchants, the sum did not deter them, and the passage became the largest fair abode.
Irbit at that time claimed the role of the first city in the Perm province, and the fair held here since the 17th century was considered the second most significant in the country, second only to Nizhny Novgorod. All Russian nobility flocked here at the beginning of the season in late January, and the city's population nearly doubled. During these months, the streets were filled with the wealthy, artists, writers, and ladies of easy virtue, coming to earn a living. Locals warmly welcomed visitors bringing "capital news."
The grand openings of the main trading event took place near the passage. In the morning, the square filled with people. It all began with a short prayer, then the flag of Russia was raised, secured on a mast above the building.
An interesting fact: the success of the fair was linked to the flag. If it got tangled, the event would drag on and be unprofitable, but if it unfurled immediately, good trade was expected. If the flag faced Siberia, the fair would be successful for Siberians; if it faced the European part, for merchants from Central Russia.
After the flag was raised, the fair was considered open. The shops were colorful with a variety of goods. Traders called out to passersby, advertising their wares. For merchants, it was not only work but also immense fun.
Interior Decoration
This architectural landmark was nicknamed "Nevsky Prospect." The pavilions of the trading center housed luxurious and expensive shops. A restaurant operated, and on the second floor, a brass band entertained the public in the evenings.
However, not everyone could peek into the main fair corner. At that time, a "dress code" was in effect, preventing ordinary guests from wandering through the trading rows. The doormen stationed at the building would expel the undesirables. Guards stood near the shops with exotic goods. At ten in the evening, when the trading center closed, the guard was dismissed.
The main concern of Irbit was related to fires, which were common at that time. To protect the trading rows, water tanks were placed in the building, and pipes with taps were laid for quick fire extinguishing.
An interesting fact: once a fire was prevented. The culprit was a merchant selling fireworks and sparklers. One of them ignited the goods, and explosions began. Someone thought to cover the blazing counter with a carpet, and disaster was averted. Terrified people nearly killed the merchant, and his "magical" items quickly flew out of the pavilion.
The passage was a favorite place for Russian artists. Concerts were often held here, one of which was conducted by conductor Agrenev-Slavyansky, a well-known performer of folk songs.
Descriptions of the fairs can be found in the works of Dmitry Narkisovich Mamin-Sibiryak, who dedicated several stories and the novel "Privalov's Millions" to this event.
In the 20th Century
In the early 1900s, revolutionary Alexander Ivanovich Fadeev, the father of the famous Soviet writer, arrived in Irbit. He was from these places, but fate took him to St. Petersburg, where he was imprisoned for anti-government activities. At the beginning of the first revolution, Fadeev returned to Irbit, continuing his opposition to the tsarist regime.
In 1905, he organized a rally in the passage building, opening a new, revolutionary life for the pavilion. A year later, Fadeev planned to hold a congress of peasants from the Irbit district here, but the police arrested the participants. In 1918, the basements of the passage became a prison for White Guards, and in 1922, the Soviet flag was raised over the building.
Until 1929, the passage remained the center of the Irbit fair, but then trading activities ceased, and the building was transferred to the NKVD, which established its headquarters there. During the Great Patriotic War, the premises became a shelter for an artillery school.
In the 21st Century, the landmark returned to its roots. In 2003, the city authorities revived the fairs. Although they take place in a "modern format," without the grandeur of the 19th century, they have their own charm. Thus, the Irbit Passage began a new life. Today, mini-stores operate here, and private traders, like the merchants of old, entice visitors with their goods. The passage has become a kind of museum, telling the story of Ural trading traditions.
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