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Merchant Filippov's House in Staritsa: Where Pushkin Danced

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The two-story mansion in the center of Staritsa attracts attention with its lightness and elegance of architectural lines. In the past, high society life thrived here: wealthy merchants and local nobles held balls, attended by celebrities from the capital. Receiving an invitation to such events was considered a great honor. Even Alexander Pushkin danced here on the floor that is already two hundred years old. The house belonged to merchant Filippov, and the design was created by the famous Karl Rossi. The parquet still does not require restoration.

Staritsa, one of the oldest cities in Russia, was founded in 1297. Many pre-revolutionary landmarks have been preserved on its land. In addition to the Holy Assumption Male Monastery, churches, cathedrals, and estates, the mansion built in the late 19th century for Zemstvo meetings and the unique Apothecary Lane, reminiscent of a staircase, are of interest.

The stone house at 18 Lenin Street, with a bel étage above the roof and a balcony enclosed by a wrought-iron fence, looks neat and solid. It is proportionate and concise, with half-columns between the windows giving it slenderness and elegance, while the white 'Staritsa marble' adds splendor.

'Staritsa marble' is limestone mined in local quarries. It is well-known in Central Russia and was used in construction. Long caves formed at the extraction site, where one can wander for years.

Merchant of the first guild Filippov, the owner of the house, had several properties and rented this one to noble families. Karl Rossi rebuilt the fire-damaged Tver in the classical style in the early 19th century and created architectural models for Russian cities. The building was erected according to one of these projects and was subsequently remodeled several times. However, numerous extensions, stables, service rooms, and barns have not survived to this day.

The interiors of the building impress even more than its exterior. A wooden-carved staircase leads to the 'Pink Drawing Room' and the ballroom. A spiral staircase leads to the bedroom, children's room, and a large room with a balcony.

The dance hall is spacious, cozy, and harmonious, although it is not luxurious. Stylish curtains adorn the windows. Heating is provided through pipes from stoves, bronze flaps of which are works of art. The stoves themselves have not survived. The crystal chandeliers in the plaster rosettes are also magnificent.

Most likely, Alexander Sergeyevich visited Filippov's house more than once. Local beauties remembered him for a long time, as he did them. At one time, the mansion was rented by Praskovya Alexandrovna Osipova-Wulf with her children. The poet maintained good relations with this family and often stayed at their estate in Malinniki. He dedicated the poem 'Winter Morning' to Anna Wulf.

During the restoration of Filippov's house, a letter from Alexei Wulf, the son of Praskovya Alexandrovna, was found in the construction debris, but it soon disappeared. Mysticism is often encountered here. Local historians hope to discover a secret passage under the Holy Assumption Monastery or even the lost library of Ivan the Terrible, who lived in the Staritsa Kremlin in the 16th century.

In the 1990s, the house was restored and transferred to the Center for Russian Culture. It now functions as a museum. The building hosts art exhibitions, meetings of the Poets' Club, conferences, creative meetings, and wedding ceremonies.

During excursions, staff put on a real performance. The guide in a ball gown tells about the old balls and ball etiquette, games, and amusements of that time. A dance teacher demonstrates the basic steps. All this is organized by the Moscow Historical Society 'Ball in the Russian Estate.' You can also try to 'get into character' as a historical figure and whirl in a waltz on the old parquet.

Geo point

Дом купца Филиппова в Старице, здесь кружился в вальсе Пушкин

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